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How to Get Rid of Bees & Wasp’s
Paper Wasps - construct gray or brown papery water-resistant nests made of dead wood and plant stems. They are 3/4 to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.5cm) long. Since their territoriality can lead to attacks on people, and because their stings are quite painful and can produce a potentially fatal anaphylactic reaction in some individuals, nests in human-inhabited areas may present an unacceptable hazard. Silverfish - like starchy foods high in carbohydrates and protein. Typically living for two to eight years, silverfish are born whitish, but develop a grayish hue and metallic shine as they get older. Some of their favorite foods are glue, book bindings, paper, photos, sugar, coffee, hair, carpet, clothing and dandruff, cotton, linen, silk, and synthetic fibers. They can live for a year or more.
Yellow Jacket Wasps - often become a nuisance in Kansas, especially from spring through October, as they build up in large populations and scavenge for human food at picnics, cookouts, outside restaurants, bakeries, campsites, fairs, sports events and other outdoor get-togethers. Many are attracted in large numbers to garbage cans and other trash receptacles. Others fly in and out of nests built around homes, buildings and areas where people live, work and play, causing fear and alarm. They are bold and sometimes aggressiveness and have painful stinging ability.
Bee and wasp stings cause human deaths in auckland each year. The ability to sting, coupled with great mobility, make bees and wasps some of the most feared of all insects. Many species of bees and wasps are present in every geographic region of Auckland. Only a few of these species really need to be feared, however, and then only in special cases.
If you are affected, you can call us to provide you a technically best bee control solution 376 7007
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Facts, Identification & Flea Control
Appearance:
Small, wingless, about 1/12- to 1/6-inch long. Covered in spines with piercing mouthparts.
Habit:
A parasite that attaches to a host.
Diet:
Larvae feed on organic debris, particularly the feces of adult fleas, which contain undigested blood.
Reproduction:
Eggs are not attached to the host. Eggs will hatch on the ground, in nests, carpet, bedding, upholstery or cracks in the floor. Most hatch within seven to fourteen days. Flea control is easier once they hatch
How to Flea control your home
If possible, try to identify the source of the problem. In many cases this can be traced to a family pet. Treatment for pets may take the form of flea control insecticide aerosol sprays, pour-on products or a tablet. Your vet can explain where and how to use the product.
Consult your vet or the pest control officer at your local council for more information about the product you are using if you need it. Alternatively the pest control officer can treat your premises using a combination of Flea control insecticides and products that inhibit flea development.
When Other Flea Control Methods Fail
For some people, it may be easier and more effective to let Flea control professionals handle the job of ridding their home of fleas. Although the flea control professionals will most likely use the same products and methods you would use in your home, they will have better equipment, as well as the experience to know how to get rid of the fleas quickly and efficiently.
Flea extermination with guaranteed results
Professional pest control companies will not only provide flea control professional service, but they also usually offer a guarantee. So, once you've paid for the service, you can generally be assured that your flea problem will be solved. If not, the pest control service will provide another treatment free of charge. However, be sure to ask the provider about flea control guarantees before purchasing.
Once you request the extermination service, the company will do an initial visit to assess your needs, and determine the type of pest in your home, and their means of entry. In the case of fleas, before the treatment begins, you will most likely be requested to remove or wash all pet bedding, vacuum carpets, and do the other non-pesticide related steps. In addition to preparing your home for flea control treatment, you will of course also need to treat your pet for fleas.
Preparing your home for professional flea control
Once you've requested the professional extermination service, make sure that all outdoor areas, crawlspaces, and shaded areas are available for flea control treatment. You will also have to arrange to be out of the house for several hours after treatment. Also, all pets, including birds and reptiles will need to be removed from the home as well. Fish tanks can be covered with a damp towel, and the air pump turned off.
Professional pest control services can be an easy and effective way to eliminate fleas in your home, especially for those without the time or inclination to attempt the process themselves. Be aware, however, that flea control treatment of the pet will still have to be done by the owner or a veterinarian, as pest control services don't handle that aspect.
Fleas - small, brown and wingless, a litter is no larger than the size of a pinhead. They move fast and can leap great distances. The leading cause of skin problems in dogs and cats is the ordinary flea. In colder climates, fleas are usually seen only in warm weather. Adult female feed on blood preferring your dog or cat, but in heavy infestations, fleas will readily bite humans. Heavy flea infestations can even cause anemia and death without flea control treatment. Your pet gets tapeworm infections from biting infected fleas. To effectively eliminate fleas from your pet and your environment, you must disrupt the life cycle of the flea. The adult fleas you see represent only 1% of the flea population. The other 99 percent are unseen eggs and immature developing fleas in your rugs, furniture, the pet's bedding, or outside. To control fleas, you must control this reservoir of developing fleas as well as the adults. Contact Auckland Carpet Steam 'n' Dry for your flea control service
Fleas, although only about 1/10 inch long, can bedevil rodents, skunks, cats, dogs and humans in a big way, biting their hosts to gorge on blood meals.
Flea Control
Pest control of fleas in the yard, home and on pets starts with frequent vacuuming of the home, especially areas that pets frequent, clearing the yard of litter and debris and by establishing a regular bathing and grooming schedule for pets. Note: flea eggs can lie dormant for several years so a flea-free home can be contaminated by introducing used upholstery, carpets and rugs.
If you are affected, you can call us to provide you a technically best flea control solution 376 7007
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Amid the other components of dust (dirt, dried feces, skin cells, pollen, dander, spider webs, mold and fungus spores, hair, etc.) are microscopic arachnids called house dust mites (not dustmites). There are two types commonly found in homes; the European house dust mite (not dustmite) and the American house dust mite. Both can be found in practically every home in North America, and both are placed in the genus Dermatophagoides. Their close proximity to humans is due to the fact that these tiny little whitish to bluish arachnids' favorite meal is sloughed skin cells. Since the average person sloughs roughly 12 grams of skin cells a day, it makes sense. Aside from skin, dust mites can and do eat, among other things, mold and fungal spores, pollen, feathers, wool, and dried semen. Did I say dried semen? Yup. I said dried semen. In fact, dust mites who make a meal out of spooge crusties lay nearly double the eggs of those who are not given the opportunity. The lesson? Wear a condom.
For most people, dust mites are completely harmless. However, for those of us unlucky enough to have a dust allergy, they are the culprit. Found in dust mite carcasses and dust mite feces is a neat little protein called DER p1. Most people's immune systems could give a crap less about this protein. It's harmless. Unfortunately, the immune systems of people with a house dust mite allergy are kinda stupid. They mistake DER p1 as hostile and go on the attack. This gives rise to such dust mite allergy symptoms as drippy, runny noses, stuffy noses, coughing, sneezing, teary eyes, itchy eyes, itchy nose, itchy throat, itchy roof of mouth, chest congestion, wheezing, skin rash, post-nasal drip, chest congestion, swollen eyes, red-rimmed eyes, dark circles under the eyes, crusty eyes, and facial pressure and pain, just to name a few. Reactions to the dust mite allergen can be even harder on those with asthma. Airways in the lungs can become angry, swollen, and inflamed, increasing the severity and frequency of asthma symptoms. And just in case you don't hate dust mites enough already, they have also been linked to problems like rhinitis, eczema, atopic dermatitis, and, albeit loosely, SIDS.
Behavioral Control: Control dust mites by changing your lifestyle
See a doctor
Before you start going crazy with dust mite control, it's advisable to go see a doctor to make sure the allergy symptoms you are suffering from are indeed attributable to house dust mite exposure.
Remove surfaces that are conducive to high dust mite populations.
If you don't want them in your home, don't make them comfortable. First and foremost, the best thing you can do for dust mite allergy control is to get rid of all wall-to-wall carpeting. There is nothing that makes dust mites happier than carpeting. Upholstered furniture should be next on the list, especially the big, fluffy, overstuffed stuff. If you can afford to, replace it with leather or vinyl. Don't use bed skirts or bed canopies. Replace heavy drapes with washable curtains or easily cleanable blinds.
Reducing clutter is important for controlling dust mites.
Walk around your house, look at everything you own, and decide how badly you need it. I'm willing to bet that you could easily live without 60% of the crap that's lying around. Get rid of newspaper stacks, magazines, old mail, and any books you don't intend to read again. Take a look at all of your knick knacks too. Not only are many of them meaningless, but all of them add extra surface area for dust and dust mites to settle on and make any dusting projects more difficult.
Clean your home more frequently and with more diligence.
When learning how to control dust mites, one of the most basic and effective things you will come to find is that you need to clean...a lot. I know it seems like I'm spouting some common sense bullpoop here, but bear with me. For getting rid of dust mites you need to be dusting at least once, preferably twice, a week. Start high, like ceiling fan blades, tops of picture frames, and tall shelves, and work your way down. Once you're done dusting, any dust you kicked up will need to settle somewhere. For a majority of it, that somewhere will be your furniture and the floor. This means vacuuming (both the furniture and the floors) and mopping immediately after each dusting session. Many people feel compelled to sweep before mopping. If you're trying to remove dust mites, this is a no-no. Sweeping causes things that have settled to the floor to get kicked back up into the air. Before doing any dusting, vacuuming, etc., make sure to eliminate all drafts. Close doors and windows and turn off fans and air conditioners.
In the bedroom.
Since so much time is spent in the bedroom, you should put forth a little extra effort when it comes time to eliminate dust mites found there. Wash sheets and pillowcases once a week. That doesn't mean change them and throw the dirty ones in the hamper. Wash them immediately in hot water. The hot water will kill dust mites and dust mite eggs and wash away most of the old nasty skin cells that you've dropped in them. And like I mentioned before, dust mites swallow. Washing the sheets will remove old, dry semen. If you use down comforters, wool blankets, or feather pillows, swap them out. Use bedding made from cotton or synthetic fibers. They're not as tasty. Finally, pick your crap up. Keep your clothes in the closet with the door shut or in the dresser. Quit leaving them in a heap on the floor.
Pets.
Because dust mites are just as happy to eat pet dander as they are to eat human dander, if you are allergic to dust mites, you should strongly consider keeping your home free of cats and dogs. However, if you love cats and dogs as much as I do, this may be out of the question. So, to prevent dust mites from multiplying because of your pets, make sure to wash pet beds as frequently as you do your own. You should also consider keeping those pet beds as far away from your own bed as possible. The last thing I have to say on the subject of pet owners getting rid of dust mites is to give your pets treats with, or supplements containing, omega fatty acids. This will cut down on pet dander by helping to keep their skin healthy.
Habitat Control: Make your home inhospitable to dust mites
Temperature.
Dust mites thrive in warmer temperatures. For this reason, keeping your home a little cooler is a very effective dust mite treatment. Set thermostats to below 70ºF. The cooler, the better. If you're cold, quit complaining and wrap yourself in a blanket made from synthetic fibers (think Vellux).
Humidity.
Along with high temperatures, dust mites require high humidity. This is due to the fact that they don't drink water. They absorb it from the air. Outfit your home with several dehumidifiers, install fans in the bathroom and above the stove, fix leaky faucets and pipes, insulate pipes to avoid condensation, get rid of aquariums, install fans in rooms with poor circulation, and keep the doors to those rooms open. When it comes time to mop, consider foregoing the damp mop and instead spray a towel with your cleaner of choice. Either get on your hands and knees and scrub, or stand on the towel and skate across the floor. The idea is to get the humidity of your home down as far as possible. While a relative humidity of anything less than 70% is helpful, you should really aim for somewhere in the neighborhood of 35%.
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Dust mites are everywhere and there's just no escaping the fact that they will infest your carpets and if left to their own devices, each female will lay up to 100 eggs during its 80 day life cycle. Can you imagine the trouble this can cause in your office if your carpet cleaning efforts are not up to scratch?
Although dust mites do not attack the human body directly, their presence can trigger an allergic reaction causing great discomfort to those who are susceptible to them. In fact, it is not the dust mites themselves that cause the problem as much as the protein found in their remains and in their excreta, namely DER p1. Conventional machine - usual carpet cleaner cannot remove the remains of dust mites and that is why Auckland Carpet Steam ‘n’ Dry needs to be called in.
The more people you have working in your office, the more likely it is that dust mites will be present in the carpet. This is because human bodies shed skin in small quantities all the time and this is what attracts dust mites in the first place. In the home it is easy to take remedial action like changing your bed linen regularly and cleaning pillows on a regular basis. But in an office environment where carpets are the main affecting element a specialist cleaning program needs to be implemented to rid the office of these pests.
The fibres of most carpets have a rough fibrous surface that hold dust mites within the pile even when a normal vacuum cleaner is used to suck them out. Only a commercial cleaner coupled with specialist cleaning agents can do a proper job of removing them almost completely, the operative term here is ‘almost completely' because dust mites are impossible to entirely eradicate.
Let's look at the best strategy is for keeping your office as free of dust mites as possible.
Dust mites are a major cause of allergies and asthma so if any of your staff starts to exhibit the symptoms, like itchy or runny noses, sneezing and wheezing of any sort, you may have a dust mite problem that needs immediate attention. They thrive in warm humid climates so make sure your air-conditioning is adjusted to the lowest comfortable temperature.
Most important of all, make sure you employ a commercial cleaning service to treat your carpets and prevent dust mites in the first place.
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Recommended Way to Get Rid Of White Tail SpidersSpider Elimination
If you still are seeing spiders, you can call us to provide you a technically best solution 376 7007
White Tail Spiders are reported to be biting Kiwis
There have been reports in the national press of incidents around the country and specifically in the North Shore of people ending up in hospital after being bitten by White Tail Spiders. TV3's Campbell Live of 17th November featured some 'facts' on Whitetails but made little effort to advise on how to get rid of them and keep them away.
White Tail biology and habits
The White Tail Spider is native of New Zealand. (Why are so many of our pests Aussies?) They probably arrived here first about 100 years ago and found the conditions to their liking. Whitetails are predators of other spiders, particularly the Grey House Spider which is also Australian. They don't weave a web to catch prey, they actively seek out other spiders and stalk them down. They do however, produce silk in a tangle as a nest. this is often found in warm dark places around the house.
Whitetails produce a venom that they use to paralyse their prey by injecting it via their fangs. These fangs are such that the spider can bite humans. That they do bite humans is not in dispute. However, the seriousness of the bite is still controversial. It is accepted that the bite is as painful as a bee sting but there are many people that report more serious reactions including stiffness, headaches and swelling. There also many reports of ulceration and necrosis possibly caused by infection of the bite either directly from the spider fangs or subsequently from scratching of the wound.
White Tail spiders do not seek to bite us but will defend themselves if they feel under threat. They hunt mostly during the night and hide in dark nooks and crannies during the day. They are often found amongst the folds of clothing, curtains, bed linen, in shoes and other places where we may innocently place our hands or feet. The spiders natural reaction to this invasion of 'their' space is to bite. And we suffer the consequences.
Get rid of White tail Spiders
With a little effort it is possible to eradicate White Tail Spiders and other spiders from your home and keep them at bay. Your roof void is a likely place for these spiders to nest and hide during the day. A Bug Bomb released in the roof void will permeate through the area and kill the spiders and their prey.
Then treat the interior of the house with a residual surface spray containing deltamethrin or permethrin. These are safe synthetic pyrethroid insecticides and kill insects and spiders that cross the treated surfaces. Spray the nooks and crannies around the house. Pay attention to the instructions on the product. Spray skirtings, back of wardrobes, under beds, around windows etc. Also treat areas where other spiders are seen. If you can remove other spiders there will be no food for Whitetails and no reason for them to come into your home.
Finally it may be worth while spraying around the outside of the house. Concentrate on the eaves and bases of walls and places where there are dark crevices to hide such as wood piles. Do these things and you can stay free of the fear of spiders and their bites.
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Symptoms are usually confined to local mind stinging or burning pain, sometimes followed by development of an itchy lump. Less commonly, bites result in swelling, discolouration and local ulceration, sometimes with nausea and vomiting. There is no conclusive evidence that these spiders regularly cause significant skin damage or ulceration.
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Carpet beetles can cause serious damage to fabrics, carpets, furs, stored foods and other items derived from plants and animals. Adult carpet beetles are indications of an infestation but they feed on flower pollen and do not themselves cause damage. Adults usually appear in spring or early summer; indoors, they are often seen near windows. Carpet beetle larvae, however, feed in dark, undisturbed locations on a variety of household items including:
Black Carpet Beetle
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How to Get Rid of CockroachesCockroaches when hungry will eat just about anything; pastes, glues, solid soaps and starch based paints and foods. Also, having cockroaches crawling around your cosy nest is a rather unpleasant sight. So how do you tackle these pests?
Cockroaches are insects belonging to the family Blattidae and they share a common ancestry with termites and grasshoppers. American cockroaches are one of the most common insect pests found in urban areas throughout the world. This species of cockroach prefers to live in a warm humid atmosphere, the same conditions preferred by man, so it is no wonder that American cockroaches have adapted to living in buildings, ships, restaurants and greenhouses. Having had a longer track record of survival on the planet earth (300 million years versus 1 million years for man), it is believed by many that cockroaches are likely to out survive man in the long run. This fact sheet is focused on how to control American cockroaches that enter buildings in New England.
Interesting Cockroach Facts
Identification
There are several pest species of cockroaches found indoors and many more non-pest species found in nature. The large, reddish brown to uniform brown cockroach, Periplaneta Americana, the American Cockroach, is the largest pest species of cockroach in the world. American cockroach adults reach 1.5 inches in length and they scoot across the floor with rapid movements. Egg cases (ootheca) containing up to 16 eggs are cemented to surfaces near their food source. The much smaller nymphs or immature stages are rarely seen and they are a darker brown. There are a couple of similar looking species of large cockroaches that are found in greenhouses and in other warm, humid locations so it is important to make a correct identification before starting a control program.
6 Breeds of Cockroaches
Facts, Identification & Control
Cockroaches can wreak havoc on your home. To win the war in cockroach control, here’s what you should know:
German Cockroaches - are among the most common and adaptable of insects proven by fossil evidence indicating their existence for over 300 million years. The German cockroach is best identified by its small size and by two dark parallel lines running from the back of the head to the wings. They prefer a moist environment with a relatively high degree of warmth. They are especially fond of starches, sweets, grease, and meat products with garbage often being its principal food source. As with other species, German cockroaches are mostly active at night
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Get Rid of Ants: Ant Pest ControlDo you have ants all over your house? Here’s the most effective, easy way of ANT CONTROL
Few pests are harder to get rid of than ants once they’ve established themselves in your home. If you’re tired of stumbling upon a swarm of ants on a regular basis, you can get rid of ants by following step The most of common question is to get rid of Ants?U CAN GET BEST ANSWER HERE
Technical steps of getting rid of ants
Natural way of ant control
Odorous House Ant - nesting both indoors and out – this is our most common structure-invading small ant. It gains access through cracks. It gets its name from a fruity, coconut odor that is emitted when crushed. They are very dark brown to black and 1/16 to 1/8 inch in length.
Carpenter Ants – do not eat wood, they excavate to create galleries and tunnels thereby damaging wood. The longer a colony is present in a structure, the greater the damage that can be done. They especially prefer rotting trees, tree roots, tree stumps, and logs or boards lying on or buried in the ground and moist or decayed wood inside buildings. Nests have been found behind bathroom tiles; around tubs, sinks, showers, and dishwashers; under roofing, in attic beams, and under sub-floor insulation; and in hollow spaces such as doors, curtain rods, and wall voids. Carpenter ants may also nest in foam insulation. A parent carpenter ant colony sometimes establishes one or more satellite nests in nearby indoor or outdoor sites.
Call a ant control professional now to get rid of Ants 376 7007
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Bed Bug Exterminator ServicesAuckland Carpet Steam ‘n’ Dry team has years of experience in eliminating bed bugs and other pests in homes, apartments, hotels, restaurants, offices. Our exterminators are licensed and certified bed bug and pest professionals. Our unit of experienced exterminators our designed to seek out bed bugs where they hide. Once bed bugs have been detected, our team uses Thermal Heat Remediation & traditional Crack and Crevice treatments to comprehensively deal with these pests. You can rest assured that our professional technicians will keep your home free of bed bugs.
What we offer:
Types of Premises Serviced:
Bedbugs – are attracted by warmth and the presence of carbon dioxide. They pierce the skin of its host with two hollow tubes and with one tube, it injects its saliva, which contains anticoagulants and anesthetics and with the other, it withdraws the blood of its host. Bedbugs are generally active only at night; with their peak attack period is usually roughly an hour before dawn. Bedbugs can live up to 18 months without a food source.
Bed Bug Services
At Auckland Carpet Steam ‘n’ Dry we resolve bed bug problems for businesses in Auckland. Our Auckland pest control company customizes our guaranteed commercial bed bug services to each and every business after careful assessment of the severity of the infestation, the likelihood of re-infestation as well as the other environmental concerns that factor into the development of a successful bed bug treatment
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How to Get Rid of Rats, Mice, RodentsA house mouse averages 50 droppings per day House mice often frequent 20 to 30 feeding sites A single female mouse may produce 56 off spring annually.
Control Methods
Baiting - Rodent control baits are based on second generation single dose anti coagulant Bromadiolone. This bait does not require prebaiting and is accepted readily by rats and do not cause secondary poisoning. Rodent Control Bait Station Boxes The baits are placed in bait boxes which are strategically located at places frequented by rodents. Fortnightly visits are made to replenish the bait and monitor rodent activity dead rodents, if any, are collected and disposed off. If surrounding open area is infested with rodents the burrows are treated by baiting. Rodent Control Glue traps The premises where baiting is not advisable, rat control glue boards and traps are used, here the rats are trapped and can be Disposed off suitably. Thus, foul smell emanation from rats dying in inaccessible areas can be avoided.
After the rodent control exercise and initial cleanup operation, it becomes essential to prevent entry of rodents from the surrounding areas and also to stop movement of rodents within the premises. This calls for certain proofing measures, structural additions and fixed mechanical barriers to check entry and movement. The details of pest control are provided after a thorough inspection at the time of the initial clean up operation.
Rodents will give way to high risk to human health and consume food materials stored at house, damage electrical wirings, insulation and more in offices, houses or factories. Moreover, it is a menace which everyone would dislike at their premises. Rodent control should be taken very seriously in the home or any business for a clean atmosphere.
Rodents are a hazard to public health. They can transmit a number of diseases which can be potentially fatal to man, such as Weil's disease and murine typhus. They also carry disease organisms such as salmonella bacteria, viruses and parasites such as worms and fleas. In an urban environments, rats readily find food from a variety of sources such as refuse from commercial kitchens and restaurants, in addition to food waste obtained from scavenging in domestic refuse or in drains and sewers.
Rats will burrow, especially into soil, compost heaps, under coverings such as paved areas and under sheds. Gas and water pipes are also at risk and rat burrowing can undermine building foundations. They can be frequently found living inside buildings in the cavity between walls and in roof spaces, or beneath piles of rubbish, near water, or in drains and sewers. Due to their agility and ability to squeeze through small openings it is sometimes difficult to keep rats out of buildings without implementing some form of rodent proofing.
Rats continually gnaw and they have very hard incisor teeth which can penetrate materials such as concrete, lead and aluminium. This can result in expensive damage and even fires when electric cables are damaged.
Rats can breed quickly, a healthy female can produce five litters a year, each of 8 - 10 young with offspring attaining sexual maturity in 8 - 12 weeks. At any time as many as 30% of females in a population may be pregnant. It is quite easy for infestations to build up without ever noticing a rat - their nocturnal habits tend to keep them away from human contact. If a rat is seen during the day, it is usually an indicator of a sizeable infestation. Signs of infestation are droppings, gnaw marks, runs and smears marks produced by the rat.
The HOUSE MOUSE, the NORWAY RAT, and the ROOF RAT
We also have a section on SQUIRRELS, INSPECTIONS,RODENT EXCLUSIONS, AND SANITATION Besides eating our food they spoil it by contamination with their feces, urine, or fur.They can be found not only in our homes , but supermarkets, restaurants, warehouses, food processing facilities, livestock facilities, and farm fields.
Under stable conditions rodent movement for both rats and mice is limited. A Norway or Roof rat will move within a diameter of 98 to 164 ft. and a house mouse,10 to 33 ft. If conditions are unstable or there are changes such as new building, they may expand the diameter. They may also expand their range in protected areas such as in sewers, in passages between buildings, and under groundcovers
Rodents will give way to high risk to human health and consume food materials stored at house, damage electrical wirings, insulation and more in offices, houses or factories. Moreover, it is a menace which everyone would dislike at their premises. Rodent control should be taken very seriously in the home or any business for a clean atmosphere.
If you are affected, you can call us to provide you a technically best solution 3767 007
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Silverfish are slender, wingless insects, shiny silver in appearance, approximately 10mm long with three, long bristletails at the end of their body. They can be found in moist places such as kitchens and bathrooms, underneath floors, sinks, in cupboards, and along pipes where they hide during the day and feed during the night. They are extremely fast runners and are sometimes seen trapped in wash hand basins or baths where they are unable to climb out.
Silverfish are scavengers and can cause damage in the home by eating materials such as wallpaper, or books and other materials that are high in protein, sugar, starch, cereals. They seldom damage fibres of animal origin such as wool or hair. Damage often appears as irregular patches removed from wallpaper or irregular and notched edges on wallpaper or other paper products. Tell tale sign of silverfish include scales, excrement, or yellowish stains on paper or fabric. A female will lay less than 100 eggs during her lifetime depositing them in damp and warm places such as cracks and crevices or behind skirting boards.
The eggs hatch after two to eight weeks depending upon conditions. The lifecycle is completed within 3 - 4 months in warm humid conditions, or within 2-3 years in cooler dryer conditions. Newly hatched insects are about 2mm long and look like miniature adults. They live between three to four months in warm humid conditions and between two to three years in cooler, dryer areas. The insects and their eggs can be brought into the home in cardboard boxes, books, papers, starched and rayon fabrics, and other carbohydrate materials. Auckland Carpet Steam ‘n’ Dryhas a specially designed program to control and eliminate their population.
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Know your intruder, its behaviors and characteristics!
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Have Pests Invaded Your Business?
We understand that your business can't afford a pest infestation. Our Green Trucks are ready to come to your aid, any time of the day or night---whatever you require. Since 1987 Auckland Carpet Steam ‘n’ Dry continues to provide peace of mind and our personal guarantee against pest infestation.
Our Auckland pest control professionals will make a complete survey of your facilities and provide you with a report covering existing pest problems, plus any housekeeping and sanitation conditions along with our recommendations for corrections. We guarantee to offer you with the most efficient and cost effective pest control solutions to insure your business is pest free, giving peace of mind to both you and your customers.
Customized Pest Control Solutions To Fit Your Needs:
We are your local pest control company in: Auckland Carpet Steam 'n' Dry has been proudly servicing: manukau city, north shore, waitakere, , howick, pakaranga, botany, panmure, ellerslie, mt wellington, penrose, east Auckland, manukau greenlane, remuera, eastern suburbs newmarket, south auckland epsom, mt roskill, mt albert, manurewa, botany, east tamaki, otara, dannemora, otahuhu, onehunga, waitakere city, cbd, papatoetoe, west auckland pukekohe, papakura, mangere, manerewa, parnel, city, hernebay, ponsonby, pt chev, new lynn, henderson, north shore Auckland, te atatu south, te atatu penisula, western suburbs, auckland city, north shore, glendene, glen eden, shore, titirangi, massey, greenhieth, west habour, hobsonville, orewa, brownsbay, north shore, glenfield, birkdale, birkenhead, takapuna , north habour, north Auckland, devonport, milford, east coast bays, hibiscus coast, whangaparoa, rodney district, albany, nth shore, auckland cbd, eastern bays manukau city, Auckland central
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How Auckland Carpet Steam ‘n’ Dry Does It
Our certified technicians are thoroughly trained to survey and identify pest activity in and around your home using our S.T.A.R. approach to pest management.
S. Survey: We will survey your home for pest activity and pest entry points.
T. Target: We will customize a targeted treatment solution to meet your pest control needs.
A. Analyze: We will analyze the outcome of our treatments and take corrective action when undesired results occur.
R. Report: We will report our findings back to you in an effort to prevent future infestations.
Utilizing our S.T.A.R. system of pest management we will develop a targeted plan of action to rid your property of immediate pest control issues with eco-effective treatment options and exclusion techniques. If a covered pest problem arises between services, we’ll schedule a professional pest control technician to take care of it for you at no additional cost. We also offer emergency pest control services should an immediate need for pest control services arise. Our Customer Care Center is staffed locally and is available 24 hours a day to help you with any unexpected pest problems.
Effective Pest Control Solutions For Auckland Homeowners
Our Auckland pest control company has pest control handlers and applicators by the National Pest Management Association and has been entrusted to guard and protect some of our New Auckland’s highest profile properties. We are committed to protecting your house from damaging and irritating pests from carpenter ants to carpet beetle to mice.
As an pest control industry leader and innovator we are the smart solution for all residential pest issues and resolve all pest problems for homeowners in Auckland. If your home is being infested by annoying pests.
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Take a look at these guidelines for preventing household pests, pest infestations as well as the potentially damaging health and property threats they cause. Learn how to prevent bugs and rodents from getting into your home, how to protect yourself from outdoor insects like mosquitoes and bees and ways to protect your family and property from disease and property damage.
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